Geekiness

Fixing CTRL key not working

Function Key on the CM Storm Trigger

Got back the CM Storm Trigger keyboard from the hubs when his new keyboard arrived today. Immediately ran into a problem after I plugged it into the laptop.

My CTRL keys weren’t working. After a few tests, neither was my F1-F12 buttons as well. Google said it was an issue with drivers, or could be a new Windows update, most of which could have been solved with a computer restart. However, I distinctly remember having this issue years ago and it had something to do with the Function key.

So after some extra searching, I realised that the Function Lock was on, which meant the secondary functions of the keyboard was turned on like the media keys, but not the basic keys like CTRL + V to paste and CTRL + F5 for a hard refresh. This now lead to a memory gap – how do I switch off Function Lock?

Yes, reader, instead of using the laptop’s Function key lock to do it, I used the CM Storm Trigger’s lock. To disable the Function Lock on the CM Storm Trigger, you just press and hold the CM Storm logo on the right side of the keyboard for three seconds. Just refer to my photo above. The left side is the Windows key, and so pressing that will not do anything.

Man, that was embarrassing to admit.

The delight of a new computer

Bai 1
Meet BaiQ!

LOOK AT MY NEW CHILD! ISN’T SHE GORGEOUS?

So several months ago, the hubs built his new PC. I had PC envy, and started talking with him about getting me a new gaming desktop. Now the desktop he was previously using was actually mine (I had switched over to a laptop a few years ago for both Nano and on-the-go writing/freelancing) but it was really showing its age. It was about 8 years old by the time it returned to me this year, and I got it in 2014 (I actually bought it second-hand from another friend who’d been using it for a few years). 

My darling Envy the laptop, did a pretty good job of letting me surf and game a bit but was really struggling with some of the games I played. If I played games released before 2010 it was fine (think Zeus, Age of Empires, etc) but anything released in the last five years had pretty bad pixellation and stuttering, of course not including pixel-art and similar games. 

The reason? Envy didn’t have a dedicated GPU so that contributed to a lot of PC bottlenecking. This eventually lead to both me getting a Switch and dropping playing any new releases from the last decade or so, since Envy was my primary machine and I’d given the desktop over to the hubs. 

The requirements

Since it had been close to a decade since the current desktop was built, hubs and I spoke quite a bit about building a new machine for me. We ended up with a config that was very close to his, with a few changes: it needed to be very quiet because I was planning to do recordings with it sometimes, and it needed to have more RGB because if I was going to get a computer with a tempered glass side panel YOU CAN BET I WANTED IT TO LIGHT UP.

And that, my dear reader, is how I ended up with this spec: 

Case: be quiet! PURE BASE 500DX

Motherboard: GIGABYTE X570 AORUS PRO WIFI

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600

Graphics: GTX 750Ti

RAM: 16GB Corsair VENGEANCE PRO RGB (White) 3600MHz

Drive: Adata XPG Spectrix S40G – 1TB

Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock 2

Building weekend

Despite it being Merdeka weekend, the items were delivered pretty quickly… except the be quiet! case. The original store I bought from kept delaying delivery, until I called them up on Friday (note: I ordered the previous Saturday).

First the salesperson promised they’d send it out for delivery by Friday itself but by Saturday morning there was no update and so I cancelled the order. When I cancelled the order they called me immediately so I gave the phone to the hubs who had no qualms tearing the caller a new one about the delay and broken promises.

In any case, that Saturday the hubs and me rushed over to Dotatech IT after WhatsApping them – they confirmed and reserved the case for me. The rush was mainly due to the Shopee guarantee for the received parts – we needed to build the PC to ensure all parts were in working condition in case of any *touch wood* warranty issues.

Bai 5
Building in progress!

Hubs then spent most of the afternoon building BaiQ – and it didn’t help the day was SUPER HOT and we were having that stupid water cut. In the process he let me put in the CPU (AAAAAAAAAA PINS) and the SSD (OMG tiny!) but I needed him to put in the RAM because HOLY HELL stifffffffffff! 

Once everything was assembled and all the cables were sorted out (one of my HDMI cables was damaged in the process – don’t ask), the hubs immediately put in the BIOS update thumb drive and switched it on. 

Bai 4
Ignore the wiring at the back, what is cable management…

AND SHE POSTED! (meaning we could see the BIOS screen). Was so cool to see her spinning and all the pretty pretty pretty colours come to life. I’m going to just leave the RGB on without changing anything because I am loving this effect – it reminds me a lot of looking at an aquarium. 

How fast can you go?

In terms of performance, BaiQ is fast. Very fast. But even I didn’t anticipate the speed – my fastest Windows 10 installation was 30 minutes before this. BQ took 10. 

TEN. MINUTES. To install Windows. 

It was literally blink and already done, and yes this includes the time needed to connect to the Internet and linking my MSFT account. 

This is mainly because with such fast components, even the act of decompressing downloaded files becomes super quick. And it’s not just for installing Windows – a bunch of programs I downloaded and install took mere seconds or even minutes to complete (even a 70GB patch for Path of Exile) thanks to this upgrade. 

Bai 2
Spinning spinning spinning!

Some of you may have noticed I am using a pretty old graphics card, and that’s where the current bottleneck is. You are correct. This card is actually from the hub’s own former desktop, and it is enough while I save up cash to get: 

  • A possible RTX 3060 or 3070 (siao ah get 3090???)
  • New power supply to support said graphics card (current one is definitely underpowered if I want a 30 series)
  • A new monitor that’s at least 27″ or (the dream) a 32″ ultra wide
  • Optional: Decent set of speakers or possibly one that’s integrated with the monitor because I be lazy like that

This second upgrade will most likely be only in the second half of 2021 simply because a life upgrade I was planning for has finally kicked in (NO I AM NOT PREGNANT). Plus I am not in a real rush anyway. BaiQ is more than enough for my needs… for now.

[Geekiness] Fighting with Logitech G Hub

GHub Home (1)

Had a super long angery-kind of rant about the Logitech G Hub software, but ultimately, all I wanted to do was share what I learnt, which is how I got my Logitech gaming mouse to work on a laptop that doesn’t have Logitech G Hub:

The key thing is to activate your device’s onboard memory with the program you want to use over on the other laptop, but this process is not as intuitive as you might think.

Issue 1: Onboard memory doesn’t work

So, a few scenarios here: 

  • Cannot find the “switch to onboard memory” option at all
    • Click on chosen device. 
    • Click on the GEAR/SETTING icon in the upper right. 
    • Settings will be on the right side of the screen, indicating available slots.
      Note: If you press the Gear Icon from the main page before the device there’s another step of selecting My Gear > Your Device again > Onboard memory. 
  • Onboard Memory activated but the mouse becomes heavy and reverts to default behaviour
    The dumb solution? 

    Change the slot.

    Seriously. I had so much trouble with this, and all I needed to do was change the freaking slot, from Slot 3 to Slot 2 and it worked. MCB. 

Issue 2: Missing LG Hub.exe

In the midst of all this, the Logitech G Hub file went missing. Learnt that this was because G Hub has a damn weird way of installing updates instead of just bundling everything into the MSI installer like the first time it was installed, so any interruptions, like shutting down PC without realising the updater is running (and there’s no indication even IF it’s updating in the background!) can cause the EXE file to not be registered. 

And this can lead to not being able to uninstall or reinstall G Hub. Before you muck around in your registry, Reddit has the answer.

All you need to do is navigate to your C:/Program Files folder and nuke the LOGITECH folder ONLY. Don’t delete anything else, just that folder in that location. 

If you do a general search on your PC’s drive to find this folder, you may also find the Logitech G Hub folder in a location that looks like APPDATA etc, LEAVE THIS ALONE. This is where your settings live, if you nuke this as well, you will need to recreate* your shortcut keys, macros, etc all over again. 

After deleting, try to install G Hub again. It should work. If not, uninstall, restart comp, reinstall, and wait about 15-30 minutes depending on your Internet connection. 

* Up to you whether you want to install, I’d just move it to a different location if you want to do a completely fresh install but don’t want to lose your settings.

Issue 3: Missing settings

So after following the steps in Missing LG Hub, the software could detect my G502 (not the Hero, but the model before), but now I could only change the Lighting effects. I couldn’t get into Assignments (aka macros) or DPI, which left me with a super heavy and slow mouse. 

I uninstalled the software again, then restarted my PC. As it did, I took the mouse OUT from the USB hub I was using and plugged it in directly to the PC. When my comp had restarted, I reinstalled, and now it was showing. 

With missing Chrome shortcut keys but I remembered what I used so it wasn’t too hard. 

End result

Once that was done, and I followed the steps to switch to onboard memory, I took my G502 out from the laptop and plugged it back into the hub. Then I switched from my home PC to my work PC. 

My G502 finally works on my office laptop and now I have all my lovely shortcut buttons on the mouse so I don’t have to rely on my keyboard shortcuts anymore.

Fixing missing 5GHz network issues

Blog header for Missing 5GHz network issues on laptop

So, over the holidays I bought myself a HP Envy x360. It’s a beast of a machine but is also fairly light. I got the AMD version with SSD, so it’s exceptionally quick but can be noisy at times (which is quite manageable and easy to fix).

After almost two weeks of using it though, I realised that the WiFi card would not see specific WiFi networks. Specifically, I had issues with 5GHz networks – some would appear, some would not, and the most irritating of it is that my phone and the Bear’s could detect those networks easily but Envy (yes I am calling her that) could not.

As it turns out, this was a software issue that affected the Realtek cards. The good news? HP or rather Realtek has issued a fix, but getting it is a hassle. This is what HP doesn’t tell you in the forums.

Diagnosing the Realtek RTL8822BE

Follow these quick steps to check if you have the same problem as I did.

Required items
Your laptop with the Realtek RTL8822BE card (or a Realtek RTL8xxx card in general)
Phone/other 5GHz WiFi enabled device
Access/control over the router

Test this:
1. Look for a 5GHz network on your HP laptop/device.
2. See if the 5GHz network appears on your phone.
3. If the 5GHz network appears on your phone but not on your HP laptop, log into your router.
4. In your router, set the assigned Wifi Channel for the 5GHz network to any channel between 36-48.
5. Restart HP laptop/device if required and check if you can see the network now on your HP device.

If you can see the network, congratulations, you have the same issue as I did.

Fixing the Realtek RTL8822BE unable to detect 5GHz network issue

Note: Until the driver download website is updated, you will need to contact HP Support to get the updated driver for the network card.

  1. Plug your machine into the charger.
  2. Download and update the latest BIOS firmware from the official HP site.
  3. Once completed, install the driver you got from HP Support – they may send you a FTP link to download it.
  4. Go through the Diagnosis steps mentioned above to confirm it’s fixed.

And that’s it. The most tedious part of the process is actually talking to Tech Support. They actually Remote Desktop’ed into my machine to check but from what I could see, most of it was unnecessary, if you knew what you were doing. Good luck!

Slide numbers and caps changing

Office 365 quick post

Removing slide numbers from Powerpoint Office 365

  1. Click on the Insert tab.
  2. Select the Header and Footer option (towards the right of the screen).
  3. Uncheck the Slide Number option
    • If you’re just changing the title slide then click on “Don’t show on title slide” at the bottom
  4. Click “Apply to All” and close the tab.

The information on the official MS Office page seems to have completely forgotten the menu is hidden by default.

Sentence case to ALL CAPS and Title Case

Shortcuts for changing caps in MS Word, Powerpoint and Excel:

  • Word and Powerpoint
    Select and press Shift + F3 till you get the desired caps.
  • Excel
    1. Insert temporary column next next to the column you want to change caps.
    2. Use a formula to change the caps, i.e.
      =Proper(click on the cell you want to change the caps of)
      =lower(click on the cell you want to change the caps of)
      =UPPER(click on the cell you want to change the caps of)
    3. Copy the values in the temporary column.
    4. Right click anywhere else and Paste as Values.
    5. Delete temporary column.

Putting this here mainly for my own convenience. I suppose there is a reason why Excel’s a special case but really Microsoft, the fact that I had to write this entry in the first place says a lot about the total failure of your SEO.